Brake Pads? Should I do rotors as well?

"vert304" (vert304) 02/03/2018 at 17:54 • Filed to: None

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Quick question: Brake pads

If you are looking at upgrading brake pads, is it worth doing rotors as well?

PS: This is only for spirited driving, my current brakes tend to overheat quite quickly.

PS2: Do steel wheels decrease the capacity for brakes to cool, because of the smaller openings to the outside?

crowmolly > vert304 02/03/2018 at 18:10

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Get new rotors or get your resurfaced. I’ve never been a big fan of pad slapping, especially if changing compounds.

Jayvincent > vert304 02/03/2018 at 18:12

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Better brake pads will give you less fade as they heat up, so they are more able to sustain “spirited” driving. It if your issue is brake fluid boiling (also feels like brake fade or a mushy brake pedal), you might want to flush and replace your fluid first. If your current rotors are grooved, thin (minimum thickness depends on your make/model), warped, you should either have them re-machined (provided they aren’t too thin) or replaced. Lastly, if your rotors are warped (if you feel pulsing when moderate braking) you could consider larger rotors for better braking and heat dissipation. - see the internet for recommendations for your specific car and wheel package to see if a larger rotor will fit.

RacinBob > vert304 02/03/2018 at 18:15

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Sure, more open wheels help but I raced on steel wheels for years and they were OK. Probably removing the front dust shields helps more.

As for rotors, if you are cracking your rotors, or they are severely grooved, it’s time to change the rotors. Otherwise keep the ones you have.

If you are getting fade, plan A is get better pads such as Hawk pads or Performance Friction and you absolutely need a DOT 4 fluid such as Motul.

First thing to do is get a couple of pints and flush the heck out of it.

https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/rbf-600-factory-line

Wacko > vert304 02/03/2018 at 18:15

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Did you inspect your current ones?

I just changed my rears on mine, so much rust on the rotors that they were scrap. I’m gonna change my fronts once i can do them outside.

I never could just change pads on my cars, living up in the rust belt

pip bip - choose Corrour > vert304 02/03/2018 at 18:25

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Only if undersized

merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc > vert304 02/03/2018 at 18:29

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Replace pads and rotors. If you can find a good geomet coated rotor, they won’t rust on you. But yeah, swap out both pads and rotors. Relatively inexpensive purchase. And as others have said, bleed the brakes as well. Anytime you change pads, do the rotors and flush the fluid. As a rule of thumb anyway. If you have a pressure bleeder, it makes the bleeding job dead simple, and if you don’t have one, might want to get one, worth every penny. You can get the motive power bleeders in different kits with different attachments for your car. I went with a deluxe kit that had a half dozen adapters and I have used each one over the past 10 years or so. The other option are Speed bleeders for the bleed screws, but after using both methods, as well as the old pump and hold method with a friend, I’d take the motive bleeder every time.

crowmolly > merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc 02/03/2018 at 18:32

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I love my Motive. It makes brake fluid work so much easier.

dogisbadob > vert304 02/03/2018 at 18:37

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I always replace the rotors when replacing the pads. It’s very easy since they just slide right off, and rotors aren’t expensive, either.

Get coated rotors. Centric Premium, Wagner E-coated rotors, and EBC Plain rotors are the best ones to buy.

Captain of the Enterprise > dogisbadob 02/03/2018 at 19:07

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Do you mean a coated hat or the whole thing?

IWouldAddai4U > crowmolly 02/03/2018 at 19:10

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Waiting for spring to use my Motive for the first time. Got rotors in the box waiting to go on as well. May just change the pads while I’m at it, even though they’re only 9 months old.

crowmolly > IWouldAddai4U 02/03/2018 at 19:28

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Did you check to make sure an adapter fits your master? That’s the only thing that can be a little tricky.

dogisbadob > Captain of the Enterprise 02/03/2018 at 19:42

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Every surface of the rotor should be coated, except where it contacts the pads (which isn’t necessary since it glazes off every time you stop)

The coated rotors I suggested are coated on the hats (inside and outside), and the side of the rotor (sold discs) or the vents (vented discs)

I was able to find this thread on a forum with pictures of the Centric Premium. The other two brands are coated the same way

His Stigness > dogisbadob 02/03/2018 at 19:51

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German rotors coat the whole thing. I think the coating has some benefit to the pads during the break-in process. I think German rotors are the only ones that do that, though.

Urambo Tauro > vert304 02/03/2018 at 19:52

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It’s a good idea to replace the rotors at the same time, but you don’t have to.

Or maybe you should. Depends on the condition of your current rotors, I guess.

wafflesnfalafel > vert304 02/03/2018 at 19:54

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I was never 100% happy with returned rotors so I started just getting new ones when pads were replaced. It is a little more expensive, but not too bad especially considering it costs money to turn the existing ones anyways and I’m not getting fancy rotors, just stock. I recommend it.

dogisbadob > His Stigness 02/03/2018 at 20:05

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Many pads also have their own break-in coating, such as the EBC Ultimax pads. Akebono also states that no special break-in procedure is necessary.

The break-in is more important for the pads than it is for the rotors.

His Stigness > dogisbadob 02/03/2018 at 20:16

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All true. My comment was more suggesting that if he, or you, find good rotors and they have a coating on the surface it’s okay.

I didn’t know Akebono doesn’t have a break in procedure. I have Akebono’s on my Mercedes with Zimmerman rotors and they’re awesome. They do work a lot better when they’re hot. They also produce very little dust.

I installed Brembo discs one time and they actually recommended a break in a procedure similar to most pads. I think it had something to do with getting crap burnt off. The thing they said was most important was letting them cool all the way down before driving again. They didn’t smell very good after, though. I’ve also gotten Textar rotors and pads to billow out smoke. I got a little worried when I was at a red light and there was a plume of smoke coming out. Thankfully the freeway wasn’t very far.

IWouldAddai4U > crowmolly 02/03/2018 at 20:22

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Haven’t fitted it on the car yet, but I followed their guide. The car’s a 2011 Outback and I think (not looking at anything to confirm) it was a Ford/import adapter.

merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc > Captain of the Enterprise 02/03/2018 at 20:59

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Geomet is what I’ve seen as the entire coating. It’ll keep the cooling vanes from rusting over time.

merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc > crowmolly 02/03/2018 at 21:00

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Easily one of the best unitask tools I’ve purchased.

Captain of the Enterprise > dogisbadob 02/04/2018 at 07:43

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Ok cool, I was planning on buying that kind to prevent rust since I’m in Michigan. I’ll probably redo my brakes when I get my tax return. Thanks for the info!

Captain of the Enterprise > merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc 02/04/2018 at 07:45

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That would be ideal for me in Michigan. I plan on redoing my brakes when I get my tax return.